Getting Around
It’s night and music is pumping from student hangouts all along Burnette St. (the main strip in Hatfield). The dated pop music reminds me of high school days, not that it stops drunk head pumpers from the University. Cars are crammed tightly up to the curb: BMWs, Beetles, 4x4, an odd SmartCar and Mini Austins. My own ride?: sturdy legs bent L-shaped from being at a 9-5 desk job.
They told me that public transit is impossible in this city and I’m starting to agree. Double-decker buses run only till 6pm when it starts getting dark. Otherwise, you’ve got Kombi taxis- minivans that honk incessantly to pedestrians and other cars alike to attain passengers. You need to give the secret hand signal: a slight bend of the hand towards the direction you want to go. If you don’t know the routes, watch out!
I never knew we had it so good with the Canadian public transportation that runs till 2 in the morning. As a female, it’s not recommended that you walk alone after dark. So if you want to get around after 6(!), you’ve gotta get a list of metered taxi drivers in your little black book. If you use them a lot, you might be able to bargain for better deals.
The Rough Embassy Life
Being new arrivals, Tanya and I are trying to find a network of friends, so we’ve been hot on the trail of ex-pats in our vicinity. We’ve crashed the monthly Canadian pub night at the Embassy. The first time we visited them, we discovered that they are not very welcoming peeps. (They have an operating budget that only allows them to hold one event a month. But wait! They actually have a Canadian newspaper in their waiting area! A dog-eared Ottawa Citizen dated June 2003. . .hmmm.)
The participants that night were mostly middle-aged government workers absorbed in their “work” conversations. We tried our own hand at networking/schmoozing and managed to meet the chairman of South Africa’s branch of Daimler-Chrysler who went to Mandela’s birthday party. Other attending guests included the Clintons, Naomi Campbell and current/past Miss Africas. Fidel also made an appearance via video.
We went to the Australian Embassy’s WEEKLY pub night and bumped into a couple we met at the Canadian pub (he’s from California and she’s Swiss working at her embassy). They also showed up at the TWICE-WEEKLY pub nite at the Brit Embassy. (And no, contrary to most people’s popular belief, I did not attempt to pretend I was from Cambridge). I’ve decided that this whole Embassy Circuit is more like a Carni’s life than one of an intern. Luckily we met a group of interns who were playing “football” at the British Embassy. But they are all German (I promise I’ll try to mail one to Korea) except for one Swiss. Their internships only last for two months.
The embassies and High Commissions are all in the Hatfield area and remind me of the fancy Ambassador houses in Sandy Hills by the park in Ottawa. The American Embassy is huge and is right by the Australian and British ones.
Ironless Chef
Still kitchenless, I’m living like a backpacker who eats her dinners by can opener and unsliced bread. I’m beginning to understand the logic of the beans and bread/toast mentally that Brits have. Thank goodness for couscous and raw veggies. Hopefully, this arrangement is temporary because I’m planning to move to a place with a kitchen (and eat worse imitation Chinese food???)
My other option is to eat out. This option is fat-inducing and unkind to my wallet (although I must say it’s relatively cheaper than eating out in Vancity). Disappointingly, there is no Indian, Japanese or Greek food in Hatfield. There are a couple Chinese restaurants. I went to one and it was passable- extremely greasy. But I guess that makes it the more authentic Chinese experience (like the ones in Beijing).
Shopping for a more vegetarian alternative is difficult too. No soy ingredients at the local supermarket means no tofu. I found out recently that the Chinese restaurant I went to sell it by the block. When you go out to eat and want to choose vegetarian, the only options are either tomato & cheese or spinach & feta. And yes, initially I thought spinach and feta go wonderfully together but now I’m not sure if I’ll ever order that when I get home.
For further updates on the food chronicles South Africa, stay tuned. . .
Friday, October 03, 2003
Thursday, September 25, 2003
Happy Spring!
We had the first day of spring last Friday and temperatures have already reached 29c last weekend. I’m starting to accept the fact that it’ll only get hotter as we near February. Everything here seems to work in reverse, which I first found when I attempted to take over my supervisor’s driver side of the car when she picked me up at the Johannesburg airport! But I keep forgetting to observe the toilet when I flush it here. I promise to give a full-length detailed report with annotated bibliography when I witness the phenomenon.
Security Issues
Something I noticed living here is the fear of security problems. I hear about hijacks that happen and muggings, break ins, etc. The fear manifests as bars on windows and heavy gates with barbed wires on top of fences. My office has a gate in front of its door. People in bright yellow vests parade around the streets are security guards. There are two doors in banks. The first one opens and then closes when you walk in. The second door will not open unless the first door is completely shut and you push a button to open it.
Hollies!
It was Heritage Day yesterday (Sept. 24) in South Africa, the equivalent of Canada day and I would think that in Pretoria - being the capital of the country- everybody would be running around with SA flags around their necks and war paint of the SA colours. Most locals here engage in the exciting activity of staying at home to watch all the festivities on TV! We went to attend a free concert by the Union government building and watched a local group called Mafikizolo. Other live music we’ve heard so far consisted of a badly remixed version of “Ice ice baby” at a local pub in Hatfield! I look forward to many future South African musical adventures.
Don't know much about politics. . .(or geography)
I’m having amazing conversations with locals here. Their history and socio-political situation is such an integrative aspect of their lives that they know so much about their own country than most Canadians do in Canada. Their history is rich and full of struggles, triumphs and losses. Despite the sad history, I am inspired by its many freedom fighters that fought to bring South African to its present post-apartheid state. It's not the epitome of equality now but there has been much progress along the windy road. The biographies are touching and I’m learning so much. I want to learn about the first nation’s struggle in our own country and continent. I’ve been told that the apartheid state was influenced by how Canadians treated their own indigenous peoples.
Currently I’m reading a biography of Steve Biko by Donald Woods. The movie Cry Freedom is about his life.
My friend Ayanda who lives in the same guesthouse as me is Zulu and he’s from Durban on the south east of SA. In Pretoria, there are more people who are Tswana. More Zulus live in Jo-burg and in Kwa-Zulu Natal (where Durban is). I didn’t know much about African geography but I’m starting to get a grasp of this the longer I stay here and learn about it.
During Apartheid, different Native African groups were segregated to different parts of the country. These areas were named "homelands" although many of its people had never even visited those parts before. Some of the languages are much more similar to each other than Afrikaans is to English. (Africaans was developed by the Dutch when they first colonized the country. Even though there is a blend of German, English, African and Malay in the language, it is still a predominantly White colonial language.) But, the Afrikaaners and English speakers were not displaced.
Language
I am slowly learning South African lingo. Many people speak African languages and Afrikaans around us which we try to decipher and perhaps when I come back I will be fluent in the nine official South African languages.
A lekker site to visit: http://www.wavescape.co.za/bot_bar/surfrikan/slang.html
Happy Autumn to those in the North!!!
We had the first day of spring last Friday and temperatures have already reached 29c last weekend. I’m starting to accept the fact that it’ll only get hotter as we near February. Everything here seems to work in reverse, which I first found when I attempted to take over my supervisor’s driver side of the car when she picked me up at the Johannesburg airport! But I keep forgetting to observe the toilet when I flush it here. I promise to give a full-length detailed report with annotated bibliography when I witness the phenomenon.
Security Issues
Something I noticed living here is the fear of security problems. I hear about hijacks that happen and muggings, break ins, etc. The fear manifests as bars on windows and heavy gates with barbed wires on top of fences. My office has a gate in front of its door. People in bright yellow vests parade around the streets are security guards. There are two doors in banks. The first one opens and then closes when you walk in. The second door will not open unless the first door is completely shut and you push a button to open it.
Hollies!
It was Heritage Day yesterday (Sept. 24) in South Africa, the equivalent of Canada day and I would think that in Pretoria - being the capital of the country- everybody would be running around with SA flags around their necks and war paint of the SA colours. Most locals here engage in the exciting activity of staying at home to watch all the festivities on TV! We went to attend a free concert by the Union government building and watched a local group called Mafikizolo. Other live music we’ve heard so far consisted of a badly remixed version of “Ice ice baby” at a local pub in Hatfield! I look forward to many future South African musical adventures.
Don't know much about politics. . .(or geography)
I’m having amazing conversations with locals here. Their history and socio-political situation is such an integrative aspect of their lives that they know so much about their own country than most Canadians do in Canada. Their history is rich and full of struggles, triumphs and losses. Despite the sad history, I am inspired by its many freedom fighters that fought to bring South African to its present post-apartheid state. It's not the epitome of equality now but there has been much progress along the windy road. The biographies are touching and I’m learning so much. I want to learn about the first nation’s struggle in our own country and continent. I’ve been told that the apartheid state was influenced by how Canadians treated their own indigenous peoples.
Currently I’m reading a biography of Steve Biko by Donald Woods. The movie Cry Freedom is about his life.
My friend Ayanda who lives in the same guesthouse as me is Zulu and he’s from Durban on the south east of SA. In Pretoria, there are more people who are Tswana. More Zulus live in Jo-burg and in Kwa-Zulu Natal (where Durban is). I didn’t know much about African geography but I’m starting to get a grasp of this the longer I stay here and learn about it.
During Apartheid, different Native African groups were segregated to different parts of the country. These areas were named "homelands" although many of its people had never even visited those parts before. Some of the languages are much more similar to each other than Afrikaans is to English. (Africaans was developed by the Dutch when they first colonized the country. Even though there is a blend of German, English, African and Malay in the language, it is still a predominantly White colonial language.) But, the Afrikaaners and English speakers were not displaced.
Language
I am slowly learning South African lingo. Many people speak African languages and Afrikaans around us which we try to decipher and perhaps when I come back I will be fluent in the nine official South African languages.
A lekker site to visit: http://www.wavescape.co.za/bot_bar/surfrikan/slang.html
Happy Autumn to those in the North!!!
Tuesday, September 16, 2003
I'm finally here!!!
Here is where the soil is red and you are a skip and a few rands from diamonds and wineries. I'm staying at a guesthouse a block from work which is another block from the Canadian Embassy. I seem to settle in capitals in random parts of the world. First Ottawa, then Beijing and now Pretoria.
My supervisor drove me from the airport and when we stop by the intersection, I see a familiar scene. Teenaged boys walk out from the side of the road towards the stopped cars. However, they are not armed with squeegees. Instead, they have newspapers in hand. They are trying to sell drivers news! How innovative! They are quite entrepreneurial. Whistling for attention, some have cell phone gadgets and other trinkets for sale as well.
After witnessing the South African squeegee kids, I had my first cultural faux pas at the supermarket yesterday. (Yes, after a total of 26 hours on a plane I was still functional to go shopping for food!) I had my rooibos tea, my ryvita crackers, cream cheese and bananas at the checkout. The woman grabs the bananas and looks at me.
"You didn't weigh them," she says accusingly.
I look back at her. "Can't you weigh them?"
"There's a person by the fruits who weighs them for you. Won't you go get them weighed and come back?"
The other people in the queue stare at me and my obvious stupidity.
"No," I say quickly. "I'll get them another time."
Today, at the guesthouse, I met a South African from the Eastern Cape over breakfast. He's a civil engineer and has just relocated here. When he stands up to leave he sticks out his hand. I shake it. He then proceeds to do a thumb squeeze. You know- the meat on your hand by your thumb. It all seemed very b-boy ghetto to me. I ask him about this and he explains that most people shake hands like that here. I was being recruited into a secret society and I didn't even know it.
Later, I meet the security guard of my office and he shakes my hand with the thumb squeeze. I was all excited: Oh yeah, I know all this already. This is easy.
Here is where the soil is red and you are a skip and a few rands from diamonds and wineries. I'm staying at a guesthouse a block from work which is another block from the Canadian Embassy. I seem to settle in capitals in random parts of the world. First Ottawa, then Beijing and now Pretoria.
My supervisor drove me from the airport and when we stop by the intersection, I see a familiar scene. Teenaged boys walk out from the side of the road towards the stopped cars. However, they are not armed with squeegees. Instead, they have newspapers in hand. They are trying to sell drivers news! How innovative! They are quite entrepreneurial. Whistling for attention, some have cell phone gadgets and other trinkets for sale as well.
After witnessing the South African squeegee kids, I had my first cultural faux pas at the supermarket yesterday. (Yes, after a total of 26 hours on a plane I was still functional to go shopping for food!) I had my rooibos tea, my ryvita crackers, cream cheese and bananas at the checkout. The woman grabs the bananas and looks at me.
"You didn't weigh them," she says accusingly.
I look back at her. "Can't you weigh them?"
"There's a person by the fruits who weighs them for you. Won't you go get them weighed and come back?"
The other people in the queue stare at me and my obvious stupidity.
"No," I say quickly. "I'll get them another time."
Today, at the guesthouse, I met a South African from the Eastern Cape over breakfast. He's a civil engineer and has just relocated here. When he stands up to leave he sticks out his hand. I shake it. He then proceeds to do a thumb squeeze. You know- the meat on your hand by your thumb. It all seemed very b-boy ghetto to me. I ask him about this and he explains that most people shake hands like that here. I was being recruited into a secret society and I didn't even know it.
Later, I meet the security guard of my office and he shakes my hand with the thumb squeeze. I was all excited: Oh yeah, I know all this already. This is easy.
Wednesday, September 10, 2003
I want to read more about South Africa cuz I'd hate to arrive there being the naive tourist that I am. I realize that I can't understand all the issues especially with big picture issues in the time of post apartheid. I came across the text for a 15-minute radio essay broadcast by Radio 4, BBC by Arundhati Roy; September 02, 2003 entitled When The Saints Go Marching Out . Here is an exerpt:
"And what of Mandela's South Africa? Otherwise known as the Small Miracle, the Rainbow Nation of God? South Africans say that the only miracle they know of is how quickly the rainbow has been privatised, sectioned off and auctioned to the highest bidders. Within two years of taking office in 1994, the African National Congress genuflected with hardly a caveat to the Market God. In its rush to replace Argentina as neo-liberalism's poster boy, it has instituted a massive programme of privatisation and structural adjustment. The government's promise to re-distribute agricultural land to 26 million landless people has remained in the realm of dark humour. While 60 per cent of the population remains landless, almost all agricultural land is owned by 60,000 white farmers. (Small wonder that George Bush on his recent visit to South Africa referred to Thabo Mbeki as his "point man" on the Zimbabwe issue.) Post-apartheid, the income of 40 per cent of the poorest black families has diminished by about 20 per cent. Two million have been evicted from their homes. Six hundred die of AIDS every day. Forty per cent of the population is unemployed and that number is rising sharply. The corporatisation of basic services has meant that millions have been disconnected from water and electricity.
A fortnight ago, I visited the home of Teresa Naidoo in Chatsworth, Durban. Her husband had died the previous day of AIDS. She had no money for a coffin. She and her two small children are HIV-positive. The Government disconnected her water supply because she was unable to pay her water bills and her rent arrears for her tiny council flat. The Government dismisses her troubles and those of millions like her as a "culture of non-payment".
In what ought to be an international scandal, this same government has officially asked the judge in a U.S court case to rule against forcing companies to pay reparations for the role they played during apartheid. It's reasoning is that reparations - in other words justice - will discourage foreign investment. So South Africa's poorest must pay apartheid's debts, so that those who amassed profit by exploiting black people during apartheid can profit even more from the goodwill generated by Nelson Mandela's Rainbow Nation of God. President Thabo Mbeki is still called "comrade" by his colleagues in government. In South Africa, Orwellian parody goes under the genre of Real Life. "
"And what of Mandela's South Africa? Otherwise known as the Small Miracle, the Rainbow Nation of God? South Africans say that the only miracle they know of is how quickly the rainbow has been privatised, sectioned off and auctioned to the highest bidders. Within two years of taking office in 1994, the African National Congress genuflected with hardly a caveat to the Market God. In its rush to replace Argentina as neo-liberalism's poster boy, it has instituted a massive programme of privatisation and structural adjustment. The government's promise to re-distribute agricultural land to 26 million landless people has remained in the realm of dark humour. While 60 per cent of the population remains landless, almost all agricultural land is owned by 60,000 white farmers. (Small wonder that George Bush on his recent visit to South Africa referred to Thabo Mbeki as his "point man" on the Zimbabwe issue.) Post-apartheid, the income of 40 per cent of the poorest black families has diminished by about 20 per cent. Two million have been evicted from their homes. Six hundred die of AIDS every day. Forty per cent of the population is unemployed and that number is rising sharply. The corporatisation of basic services has meant that millions have been disconnected from water and electricity.
A fortnight ago, I visited the home of Teresa Naidoo in Chatsworth, Durban. Her husband had died the previous day of AIDS. She had no money for a coffin. She and her two small children are HIV-positive. The Government disconnected her water supply because she was unable to pay her water bills and her rent arrears for her tiny council flat. The Government dismisses her troubles and those of millions like her as a "culture of non-payment".
In what ought to be an international scandal, this same government has officially asked the judge in a U.S court case to rule against forcing companies to pay reparations for the role they played during apartheid. It's reasoning is that reparations - in other words justice - will discourage foreign investment. So South Africa's poorest must pay apartheid's debts, so that those who amassed profit by exploiting black people during apartheid can profit even more from the goodwill generated by Nelson Mandela's Rainbow Nation of God. President Thabo Mbeki is still called "comrade" by his colleagues in government. In South Africa, Orwellian parody goes under the genre of Real Life. "
Thursday, August 28, 2003
Life as it is
My gypsy life has taken another term as I embark on a journey afar to a land of pomegranate, lions and Dutch beef jerky. And I worry over security because to me it's the most different from life here in Canada. No gun toting citizens here and not as much crime, muggins and rape as in South Afrika.
I have decided to take as many night time walks alone in this big city before I leave the North American continent. To have my fill of being a female loitering alone in the dark. And also have as much good Chinese food as I can before I miss it for 6 whole months. And gallavanting among the mountains and oceans I will part from. Oh- that and being with family and friends.
Woe for new bold adventures. I'm excited. . .and delerious.
My gypsy life has taken another term as I embark on a journey afar to a land of pomegranate, lions and Dutch beef jerky. And I worry over security because to me it's the most different from life here in Canada. No gun toting citizens here and not as much crime, muggins and rape as in South Afrika.
I have decided to take as many night time walks alone in this big city before I leave the North American continent. To have my fill of being a female loitering alone in the dark. And also have as much good Chinese food as I can before I miss it for 6 whole months. And gallavanting among the mountains and oceans I will part from. Oh- that and being with family and friends.
Woe for new bold adventures. I'm excited. . .and delerious.
Monday, August 11, 2003
Monday, June 23, 2003
Wednesday, April 02, 2003
Wednesday, February 19, 2003
Hello, Vancity
Greetings. . . Don't know if there are still loyal readers out there who are interested in my blabbering after my trip to Asia. Perhaps reading about life in North America is not as exotic and exciting for most people. However, I did manage to steal pictures from Alley's photos taken with her wonderful digital camera so you can take a glance at Japan when I went to visit.
Tokyo and environs pictures
Courtesy of Allison Chew
Ol' Mt. Takao and me
Alley, Takao and me
Stairs up Takao
Taking the cable down from Takao
Shrine at Kamakura
Big Buddha in Kamakura
Bell at Kamakura
Another view of the bell
Being Japanese
Decisions @ Elephant Cafe
Ready to chow down @ Elephant Cafe
Enjoy!
Greetings. . . Don't know if there are still loyal readers out there who are interested in my blabbering after my trip to Asia. Perhaps reading about life in North America is not as exotic and exciting for most people. However, I did manage to steal pictures from Alley's photos taken with her wonderful digital camera so you can take a glance at Japan when I went to visit.
Tokyo and environs pictures
Courtesy of Allison Chew
Ol' Mt. Takao and me
Alley, Takao and me
Stairs up Takao
Taking the cable down from Takao
Shrine at Kamakura
Big Buddha in Kamakura
Bell at Kamakura
Another view of the bell
Being Japanese
Decisions @ Elephant Cafe
Ready to chow down @ Elephant Cafe
Enjoy!
Tuesday, February 11, 2003
Buh-bye, Fragrant Harbour (Hong Kong)
Heading back to the New World on a jet plane, hoping to be back again soon. I've been forewarned about drastic culture shock on my return. So many Hong Kong locals tell me that Canadian life is so boring. I guess in comparison to the bustle and hustle of a fast moving finance and business hub of Asia, Canadian is still in the outback where supermarkets like Loblaws close at 5pm on lazy Sunday afternoons even in the most dire epidemic of Havarti cheese shortage. Will I be like brave little Manjot Bains wondering if the Asia trip truly happened? Did I just lose 5 months out of my life in a blink of an eye. Please wait to find out. . .
Saying "see you later" to Asia: Good-bye to Hong Kong, the city with the Powderpuff girls acting at its spokespeople. I don't know why that is, but they have these three American characters littered in its MTR (subway) campaigns, Ocean Park campaigns and other Hong Kong related messages. I guess people look up to these fictional girl powder bonhommes who promise to save Asia's economic crisis??
Heading back to the New World on a jet plane, hoping to be back again soon. I've been forewarned about drastic culture shock on my return. So many Hong Kong locals tell me that Canadian life is so boring. I guess in comparison to the bustle and hustle of a fast moving finance and business hub of Asia, Canadian is still in the outback where supermarkets like Loblaws close at 5pm on lazy Sunday afternoons even in the most dire epidemic of Havarti cheese shortage. Will I be like brave little Manjot Bains wondering if the Asia trip truly happened? Did I just lose 5 months out of my life in a blink of an eye. Please wait to find out. . .
Saying "see you later" to Asia: Good-bye to Hong Kong, the city with the Powderpuff girls acting at its spokespeople. I don't know why that is, but they have these three American characters littered in its MTR (subway) campaigns, Ocean Park campaigns and other Hong Kong related messages. I guess people look up to these fictional girl powder bonhommes who promise to save Asia's economic crisis??
Thursday, February 06, 2003
A little bit of Japan by my side
I had so much fun in Nippon but I have since settled back into Hong Kong life. I did a lot including little side trips to the more natury parts of Japan (couple hours train ride from the city). We went to Yokohama (by the water, Chinatown), Kamakura (historic sights with shrines and a BIG buddha), and Hakone (great view of Mt. Fuji, hot sulfur springs and 101 transportation methods to see the city)!!! Mt. Takao in greater Tokyo was where we hiked up the mountain, had a good workout, and saw a beautiful view. What a treat to continue the Hard-core Hiking Club in Japan! In Tokyo we saw sumo, did a late night club night with Japanese reggae/celtic fusion, experienced public bathing (onsen), saw some goths and some shrines. Just like churches in Europe and temples in China, once you see one shrine, you see them all.
Tis the season to fatten up
Wouldn't you like to know what it's like to have Christmas twice a year (3, if you include Pseudo-Xmas). Being in Hong Kong the past few days was no bore at all, witnessing the festivities and packing in the pounds from fried gooey things and crispy sweets. I had so much fun eating with relatives and seeing hoards of people (some people I knew, some I didn't) who came to wish my granny happy new years. The tradition is "bai neen", where younger folks and their familys head over to elder's home to say auspicious things to them and receive "red pocket". Good thing I'm here for this holiday, I got my fair share of Hong Kong dollars too! Yay!
We did the "Fa see", flower market, which is just like another crazy PNE with stalls of vendors trying to sell you cheap household items, and Chinese New Year goodies like food and flowers. It's nothing like the ones we have in Vancouver, there are too many people squished together in a big area packed with hundred of stalls but it can take you ten minutes to move from one stall to the next! You buy your own flowers like chrysanthemums, kumquat trees, pussy willows, blossoms and these really sweet smelling flowers that open from these garlic looking things. Apparently you don't buy flowers for people as gifts because it means "fortune" and you have to make your own fortune, not give fortune away. My analogy is that you don't give Christmas trees to people as gifts. Don't know if that's quite accurate though.
I haven't spent Chinese New Years in Hong Kong in forever, and I realised that although we have a dinner the night before New Years, my family don't do much else. (except call grandparents and wish them auspicious things). I'm eating "neen go" New Years cakes, and candies andthey are so yummy. Maybe we should have a "psuedo-Chinese New Year" too! Heehee.
Oh! I saw the best fireworks! This was to welcome the New Year on the second day of Chinese New Years. It's funny how it's like the 12 Days of Christmas here except it's 15. There are certain auspicious and not auspicious things to do each day. For example tomorrow, the 7th, is "People's day", it's everybody's birthday. Anyway, I've never seen any fireworks show like this one, not even on Canada Day (Sheila Copps, setting off her personal Roman Candles) or Festival of Lights (I forgot, it's not symphony of fire anymore?). The entire sky lit up with at least 20 different colourful fireworks display at any given time in the show and the shapes and colours was amazing. We helped with the litter pick-up afterwards with somebody who knew somebody who's head of a youth organization? Talking about fireworks, I went to Macau. . .
No cows in Macau
The reason why I speak of fireworks is that firecrackers are forbidden in Hong Kong but not Macau. Taipa Island in Macau is the largest producer of firecrackers in the world, I've heard. They export to any country with a Chinese community that demand them. Macau is so laid-back and amazing since it was under Portuguese rule for over a hundred years. The architecture is decidedly European and I've got some cool pix, it looks like I'm in Portugal (not like I've been but it's fun to imagine, right?)
Always in the mood for good food
Somebody told me the most exciting thing about Macau is the food. I think she's right. The Portuguese egg tarts are the best and so is the Macanese pork cutlet buns. There was a street on Taipa Island where they shove food samples in your face so that you can taste the many candies, pastries and cookes each store have to offer. The most ubiquitous is these powdery almond cookes, nougat candies, and meat jerky. Food heaven indeed.
I had so much fun in Nippon but I have since settled back into Hong Kong life. I did a lot including little side trips to the more natury parts of Japan (couple hours train ride from the city). We went to Yokohama (by the water, Chinatown), Kamakura (historic sights with shrines and a BIG buddha), and Hakone (great view of Mt. Fuji, hot sulfur springs and 101 transportation methods to see the city)!!! Mt. Takao in greater Tokyo was where we hiked up the mountain, had a good workout, and saw a beautiful view. What a treat to continue the Hard-core Hiking Club in Japan! In Tokyo we saw sumo, did a late night club night with Japanese reggae/celtic fusion, experienced public bathing (onsen), saw some goths and some shrines. Just like churches in Europe and temples in China, once you see one shrine, you see them all.
Tis the season to fatten up
Wouldn't you like to know what it's like to have Christmas twice a year (3, if you include Pseudo-Xmas). Being in Hong Kong the past few days was no bore at all, witnessing the festivities and packing in the pounds from fried gooey things and crispy sweets. I had so much fun eating with relatives and seeing hoards of people (some people I knew, some I didn't) who came to wish my granny happy new years. The tradition is "bai neen", where younger folks and their familys head over to elder's home to say auspicious things to them and receive "red pocket". Good thing I'm here for this holiday, I got my fair share of Hong Kong dollars too! Yay!
We did the "Fa see", flower market, which is just like another crazy PNE with stalls of vendors trying to sell you cheap household items, and Chinese New Year goodies like food and flowers. It's nothing like the ones we have in Vancouver, there are too many people squished together in a big area packed with hundred of stalls but it can take you ten minutes to move from one stall to the next! You buy your own flowers like chrysanthemums, kumquat trees, pussy willows, blossoms and these really sweet smelling flowers that open from these garlic looking things. Apparently you don't buy flowers for people as gifts because it means "fortune" and you have to make your own fortune, not give fortune away. My analogy is that you don't give Christmas trees to people as gifts. Don't know if that's quite accurate though.
I haven't spent Chinese New Years in Hong Kong in forever, and I realised that although we have a dinner the night before New Years, my family don't do much else. (except call grandparents and wish them auspicious things). I'm eating "neen go" New Years cakes, and candies andthey are so yummy. Maybe we should have a "psuedo-Chinese New Year" too! Heehee.
Oh! I saw the best fireworks! This was to welcome the New Year on the second day of Chinese New Years. It's funny how it's like the 12 Days of Christmas here except it's 15. There are certain auspicious and not auspicious things to do each day. For example tomorrow, the 7th, is "People's day", it's everybody's birthday. Anyway, I've never seen any fireworks show like this one, not even on Canada Day (Sheila Copps, setting off her personal Roman Candles) or Festival of Lights (I forgot, it's not symphony of fire anymore?). The entire sky lit up with at least 20 different colourful fireworks display at any given time in the show and the shapes and colours was amazing. We helped with the litter pick-up afterwards with somebody who knew somebody who's head of a youth organization? Talking about fireworks, I went to Macau. . .
No cows in Macau
The reason why I speak of fireworks is that firecrackers are forbidden in Hong Kong but not Macau. Taipa Island in Macau is the largest producer of firecrackers in the world, I've heard. They export to any country with a Chinese community that demand them. Macau is so laid-back and amazing since it was under Portuguese rule for over a hundred years. The architecture is decidedly European and I've got some cool pix, it looks like I'm in Portugal (not like I've been but it's fun to imagine, right?)
Always in the mood for good food
Somebody told me the most exciting thing about Macau is the food. I think she's right. The Portuguese egg tarts are the best and so is the Macanese pork cutlet buns. There was a street on Taipa Island where they shove food samples in your face so that you can taste the many candies, pastries and cookes each store have to offer. The most ubiquitous is these powdery almond cookes, nougat candies, and meat jerky. Food heaven indeed.
Thursday, January 30, 2003
Being kawaii and genki
Cute and little: PART II
I had absolutely no idea how absolutely tiny Vancouver is compared to other cities until I heard that Tokyo has a population of 13 and that the station of a major city centre called Shinjuku is taken over by 2 million people in a day. This means that the entire population of Greater Vancouver would pass through one train station in the course of one day! Sugoi (v. impressed)! My perspective of Tokyo is that it would be glitz and glamour is a dizzying urban jungle with the newest of technology. But after seeing the suburbs and sitting on 7 trains on the same day, I can't say that it describes the entire city. I didn't originally make a concrete plan to visit Japan on my China trip but I'm so very glad that I did!
Iron Chef
Yes, there is indeed sushi in Japan. As good as back home? Can't really say. I would say its approximately the same minus the very unauthentic California roll. Sacriligious to say the least to have avocado of all things and imitation crab *gasp* within maki rolls. I was able to experience 100 yen sushi which means plates of sushi and other goodies move on mini conveyers belts past your table and at the end they calculate the bill by the amount of plates on your table. 100 yen a plate = $1.30Can. We had ramen noodles and soba at noodle places. The price of fruits is sky high. And I went to eat okonomiyaki, which is like a Japanese style omelette with batter and we cooked it in real authentic lard ourselves! How exciting! :)
Other rather brill moments of Japanese eating adventures include a couple of 24-hour upscale Japanese family diners with a drink bar (all you can non-alcoholicly drink). We also had fish and chips at a British bar and authentic Aussie meat pies at an Australian pub on Aussie day! Oh and did I mention that 7-11 is my new favourite store in Japan? They have box lunches with sushi, rice, tofu stuff and other yummy Japanese "fast food" you can bring along with you for picnics when you go wandering about.
Japanese characters
In the Meiji shrine area, there are goths who gather together every Sunday. I was unfortunately unable to make the meeting as I was caught up with another v. important meeting (Hard-core hiking in Tokyo). This area is the fashion district for funky trendy teenagers who may splatter themselves with bloody make-up, super high clogs with white white make-up and witch black outfits. The non-goths are not to be unrivalled, they are decked out in the trendiest, "cute" looks, very hard to describe except to say that I felt v. old and v. out of style.
The young Japanese school girls in uniform have the longest skirts, their skirts go all the way down to the crotch of their panties (or lack thereof as I've been told). Their school socks are ones that look like, when pulled up all the way, they should go up to their hips but when worn the "appropriate way", fall loosely beneath their knees. With the cold temperature and the windy conditions while I was there, I wonder how they can still have the energy to parade down the streets with their bouncy skirts. I guess that's why they have those white masks to avoid giving other people their germs. . .
How can I forget the businessmen. The salarymen who is the sushi winner of the household gets home late every night because he is held back by colleagues. . . to be drunk and merry. He is lured by the hostesses of bars on the side alleys and drinks sake till the wee hours. I've heard of the coffin shaped sleeping portals he can rent to stay the night in downtown after the last subway leaves the station before one in the morning.
Homeless in Japan
In parks around Tokyo there are tent communities where the homeless live. I've seen this example in Ueno Park, where blue tarps take over an area. It actually looks like a campsite in Canadian campgrounds you can pay $15 a night for. They must be pretty well insulated to keep the people warm in the windy nights. (It reminds me of Hong Kong when temperatures of 12c and under requires a "chill warning" on television. In such conditions, Hong Kong reports several deaths, usually old people who freeze to death.) I have heard that if you want to send a person living in a tent community snail mail, you can address it to the park (ex. Ueno) with the recipient's name on it and it will arrive there safely.
To be continued
p.s. Happy Chinese New Years on February 1st.! My Granny has been so busy with preparations lately. She tells me that for the Hong Kong people, it's like Christmas celebrations. V. exciting to be participating in this years festivities. They celebrate New Years on Jan 1 in Japan so coming back to see decorations and people rushing about with New Years goodies is delicious.
Cute and little: PART II
I had absolutely no idea how absolutely tiny Vancouver is compared to other cities until I heard that Tokyo has a population of 13 and that the station of a major city centre called Shinjuku is taken over by 2 million people in a day. This means that the entire population of Greater Vancouver would pass through one train station in the course of one day! Sugoi (v. impressed)! My perspective of Tokyo is that it would be glitz and glamour is a dizzying urban jungle with the newest of technology. But after seeing the suburbs and sitting on 7 trains on the same day, I can't say that it describes the entire city. I didn't originally make a concrete plan to visit Japan on my China trip but I'm so very glad that I did!
Iron Chef
Yes, there is indeed sushi in Japan. As good as back home? Can't really say. I would say its approximately the same minus the very unauthentic California roll. Sacriligious to say the least to have avocado of all things and imitation crab *gasp* within maki rolls. I was able to experience 100 yen sushi which means plates of sushi and other goodies move on mini conveyers belts past your table and at the end they calculate the bill by the amount of plates on your table. 100 yen a plate = $1.30Can. We had ramen noodles and soba at noodle places. The price of fruits is sky high. And I went to eat okonomiyaki, which is like a Japanese style omelette with batter and we cooked it in real authentic lard ourselves! How exciting! :)
Other rather brill moments of Japanese eating adventures include a couple of 24-hour upscale Japanese family diners with a drink bar (all you can non-alcoholicly drink). We also had fish and chips at a British bar and authentic Aussie meat pies at an Australian pub on Aussie day! Oh and did I mention that 7-11 is my new favourite store in Japan? They have box lunches with sushi, rice, tofu stuff and other yummy Japanese "fast food" you can bring along with you for picnics when you go wandering about.
Japanese characters
In the Meiji shrine area, there are goths who gather together every Sunday. I was unfortunately unable to make the meeting as I was caught up with another v. important meeting (Hard-core hiking in Tokyo). This area is the fashion district for funky trendy teenagers who may splatter themselves with bloody make-up, super high clogs with white white make-up and witch black outfits. The non-goths are not to be unrivalled, they are decked out in the trendiest, "cute" looks, very hard to describe except to say that I felt v. old and v. out of style.
The young Japanese school girls in uniform have the longest skirts, their skirts go all the way down to the crotch of their panties (or lack thereof as I've been told). Their school socks are ones that look like, when pulled up all the way, they should go up to their hips but when worn the "appropriate way", fall loosely beneath their knees. With the cold temperature and the windy conditions while I was there, I wonder how they can still have the energy to parade down the streets with their bouncy skirts. I guess that's why they have those white masks to avoid giving other people their germs. . .
How can I forget the businessmen. The salarymen who is the sushi winner of the household gets home late every night because he is held back by colleagues. . . to be drunk and merry. He is lured by the hostesses of bars on the side alleys and drinks sake till the wee hours. I've heard of the coffin shaped sleeping portals he can rent to stay the night in downtown after the last subway leaves the station before one in the morning.
Homeless in Japan
In parks around Tokyo there are tent communities where the homeless live. I've seen this example in Ueno Park, where blue tarps take over an area. It actually looks like a campsite in Canadian campgrounds you can pay $15 a night for. They must be pretty well insulated to keep the people warm in the windy nights. (It reminds me of Hong Kong when temperatures of 12c and under requires a "chill warning" on television. In such conditions, Hong Kong reports several deaths, usually old people who freeze to death.) I have heard that if you want to send a person living in a tent community snail mail, you can address it to the park (ex. Ueno) with the recipient's name on it and it will arrive there safely.
To be continued
p.s. Happy Chinese New Years on February 1st.! My Granny has been so busy with preparations lately. She tells me that for the Hong Kong people, it's like Christmas celebrations. V. exciting to be participating in this years festivities. They celebrate New Years on Jan 1 in Japan so coming back to see decorations and people rushing about with New Years goodies is delicious.
Tuesday, January 28, 2003
Out of China: The Revenge of the "Cute and Little"
Ada "Godzilla" Chan meets Tokyo: PART I
Okay, so I haven't been writing in this online blog of mine for a while which is a big faux pas. I should take advantage of this opportunity, according to Ron (Jan, 2003), since they have apparently banned the usage of this handy lil' web journal in China. Since my last update in Hong Kong, I have taken Tokyo and its environs by storm and have lots of stories and observations to share. I was staying with Alley in Kita-Senju in the middle of her English teaching contract with Nova. I also met up with Chris who is teaching with the JET program.
So what kind of mischief have I been up to in Japan, you may ask. Apart from getting engaged with a sumo wrestler and taking up the position of an amateur karate hostess in the heart of busy Shinjuku, not much. :) But is Japan ever different from China! It seems to me that everyting in Japan is cute and little like those cute but not enough portions they serve you at restaurants. People are so concerned about their weight, health, or both that they have the amount of calories of menu items in some restaurants. Back in China, each dish can feed a family of 6 and their neighbour's dog. The price can rival Canada's which is comparatively expensive in China.
There are three systems of writing in Japanese: Hiragana, Katakana (pronunciation of foreign words and other letters in "bold"), and Kanji (Chinese). I found that I could read most of the Kanji which is helpful at times. However, many characters cannot be translatable to Chinese and the pronunciation is completely different.
Trainspotting
The average commuter in Tokyo travels individually and falls asleep to the rhythm of the rocking train so the subways are generally very quiet. Most of them are so tired from long commutes that they do not stand up and offer seats to older people who are left standing in the crowded train. Standees throw their arms akimbo and hands twisted in a secure, branch-like position to guarantee successful upright slumber. To get to the city centres from Tokyo suburbs, people take an average of 3 trains to get there and three trains back, spending an average of $15 CAN each day. There are heaters beneath the seats to keep booties warm and toasty. The Japanese love their space and if there aren't many people, they may move 3 squat-toilets length from the person sitting closest to them.
Japanese water closet
In terms of facilities for times when nature calls, the Japanese are spotlessly immaculate. If there happens to be the squat sort, they are squeaky clean. If there are western toilets, you get a heated seat and the option of having simulated water sounds to hide the sounds of human expulsion as the Japanese can be sensitive about such issues. (On my first Japanese toilet experience, I had inferred that the water sounds was to help people with number one. . .) They are also sensitive about blowing one's nose in public.
To be continued
p.s. For those curious, I'm writing this in Hong Kong where internet is more accessible (aka free) and I have more time to digest my side trip
Ada "Godzilla" Chan meets Tokyo: PART I
Okay, so I haven't been writing in this online blog of mine for a while which is a big faux pas. I should take advantage of this opportunity, according to Ron (Jan, 2003), since they have apparently banned the usage of this handy lil' web journal in China. Since my last update in Hong Kong, I have taken Tokyo and its environs by storm and have lots of stories and observations to share. I was staying with Alley in Kita-Senju in the middle of her English teaching contract with Nova. I also met up with Chris who is teaching with the JET program.
So what kind of mischief have I been up to in Japan, you may ask. Apart from getting engaged with a sumo wrestler and taking up the position of an amateur karate hostess in the heart of busy Shinjuku, not much. :) But is Japan ever different from China! It seems to me that everyting in Japan is cute and little like those cute but not enough portions they serve you at restaurants. People are so concerned about their weight, health, or both that they have the amount of calories of menu items in some restaurants. Back in China, each dish can feed a family of 6 and their neighbour's dog. The price can rival Canada's which is comparatively expensive in China.
There are three systems of writing in Japanese: Hiragana, Katakana (pronunciation of foreign words and other letters in "bold"), and Kanji (Chinese). I found that I could read most of the Kanji which is helpful at times. However, many characters cannot be translatable to Chinese and the pronunciation is completely different.
Trainspotting
The average commuter in Tokyo travels individually and falls asleep to the rhythm of the rocking train so the subways are generally very quiet. Most of them are so tired from long commutes that they do not stand up and offer seats to older people who are left standing in the crowded train. Standees throw their arms akimbo and hands twisted in a secure, branch-like position to guarantee successful upright slumber. To get to the city centres from Tokyo suburbs, people take an average of 3 trains to get there and three trains back, spending an average of $15 CAN each day. There are heaters beneath the seats to keep booties warm and toasty. The Japanese love their space and if there aren't many people, they may move 3 squat-toilets length from the person sitting closest to them.
Japanese water closet
In terms of facilities for times when nature calls, the Japanese are spotlessly immaculate. If there happens to be the squat sort, they are squeaky clean. If there are western toilets, you get a heated seat and the option of having simulated water sounds to hide the sounds of human expulsion as the Japanese can be sensitive about such issues. (On my first Japanese toilet experience, I had inferred that the water sounds was to help people with number one. . .) They are also sensitive about blowing one's nose in public.
To be continued
p.s. For those curious, I'm writing this in Hong Kong where internet is more accessible (aka free) and I have more time to digest my side trip
Sunday, January 05, 2003
Can you imagine not needing to bring a packet of overpriced tissue paper with you whenever you use public toilets? It's very emancipating. No wonder the price of tissue packets here in Hong Kong is higher than that of China. Another thing I noticed here is that you can hear much more English everywhere. Obviously the ex-British colony would know English even though most locals just speak Cantonese. There are more ex-pats here and also people back from studying abroad in English-speaking countries.
Bikes and trikes in Hong Kong
Not surprisingly, I have't seen anybody use bicycles as a mode of transportation here in Hong Kong. In such a small space of a city with over 6 million people, there is definitely not enough space to sequester a bike lane let alone wide enough car lanes for the dense traffic! In addition, it's more hilly here as I can see buildings perched on top of not so distant mountains from my granny's flat.
I, however, did take time to go bike riding away from the city. Chris' cousin from Sydney is teaching English here for a couple years and he lives in the New Territories, a huge part of Kowloon that is considered to be more countryside than city center. There is a section we rode on by the water, the bike path reminding me of Stanley Park's seawall and the path along the Ottawa River all at the same time. I saw less people and the whole atmosphere was so laid back, I was in heaven. We ended up doing a "Hong Kong" barbeque, we had to start a fire in an area full of tar pits just for this purpose. (Yes, Mike. Even though it took us half an hour, we ended up starting a fire since we are all university graduates. . .) We were spearing chicken wings, sausages, fish meatballs, mushrooms. We ended up biking alongside the Plover Reservoir with green space, water and mountains all in the same area. From far away we could barely see the city highrises.
Local paper features consumer research
From the South China Morning Post (main English newspaper in Hong Kong), I read an article on consumerism. By the way, I really like this newspaper and I find that I can take hours reading news that only mentions a certain country (our 11th southern province) in a couple articles. This interesting article said that people (mostly women) between the ages of 30-50 have a shop till you drop mentality because they grew up when Hong Kong was experiencing a booming economy in the 70s. This is not a positive thing right now as Hong Kong's economy has shifted into suffering mode.
After-effects of the Handover (aka. Return to the homeland)
Although I've said that China is not as bad as I might have thought it would be in terms of governing, it can not be compared to what Hong Kong has been used to in the past. Right after being returned to China, people who have immigrated for fear of a sudden change to communist dictatorship started to return to HK because things did not seem to have changed at all. However, the economy is now starting to suffer and the governing is law is starting to turn its evil head.
China had promised that there be no changes for 50 years, but with the new bill section 23, people here are getting uneasy. This article states that citizens will be punished if they express or do anything inappropriate. What does that mean? Nobody knows, because it seems that the government refuses to go into more details, causing some Hong Kongnese to erupt in demonstrations.
Recently, at a music awards ceremony, a famous HK artist from a rock band gave a small speech before accepting his award. He was concerned that musicians and artists cannot view their sentiments after this bill is implemented, that the bill would be detrimental. However, this segment of his speech was cut off in the television broadcast. (The radio captured the entire things.) In defense, the TV station programmer states that the sole reason is that the show had to be shortened and that other performer's songs have been shortened as well. Is this already the start of censorhip? Nobody can prove it for sure.
Bikes and trikes in Hong Kong
Not surprisingly, I have't seen anybody use bicycles as a mode of transportation here in Hong Kong. In such a small space of a city with over 6 million people, there is definitely not enough space to sequester a bike lane let alone wide enough car lanes for the dense traffic! In addition, it's more hilly here as I can see buildings perched on top of not so distant mountains from my granny's flat.
I, however, did take time to go bike riding away from the city. Chris' cousin from Sydney is teaching English here for a couple years and he lives in the New Territories, a huge part of Kowloon that is considered to be more countryside than city center. There is a section we rode on by the water, the bike path reminding me of Stanley Park's seawall and the path along the Ottawa River all at the same time. I saw less people and the whole atmosphere was so laid back, I was in heaven. We ended up doing a "Hong Kong" barbeque, we had to start a fire in an area full of tar pits just for this purpose. (Yes, Mike. Even though it took us half an hour, we ended up starting a fire since we are all university graduates. . .) We were spearing chicken wings, sausages, fish meatballs, mushrooms. We ended up biking alongside the Plover Reservoir with green space, water and mountains all in the same area. From far away we could barely see the city highrises.
Local paper features consumer research
From the South China Morning Post (main English newspaper in Hong Kong), I read an article on consumerism. By the way, I really like this newspaper and I find that I can take hours reading news that only mentions a certain country (our 11th southern province) in a couple articles. This interesting article said that people (mostly women) between the ages of 30-50 have a shop till you drop mentality because they grew up when Hong Kong was experiencing a booming economy in the 70s. This is not a positive thing right now as Hong Kong's economy has shifted into suffering mode.
After-effects of the Handover (aka. Return to the homeland)
Although I've said that China is not as bad as I might have thought it would be in terms of governing, it can not be compared to what Hong Kong has been used to in the past. Right after being returned to China, people who have immigrated for fear of a sudden change to communist dictatorship started to return to HK because things did not seem to have changed at all. However, the economy is now starting to suffer and the governing is law is starting to turn its evil head.
China had promised that there be no changes for 50 years, but with the new bill section 23, people here are getting uneasy. This article states that citizens will be punished if they express or do anything inappropriate. What does that mean? Nobody knows, because it seems that the government refuses to go into more details, causing some Hong Kongnese to erupt in demonstrations.
Recently, at a music awards ceremony, a famous HK artist from a rock band gave a small speech before accepting his award. He was concerned that musicians and artists cannot view their sentiments after this bill is implemented, that the bill would be detrimental. However, this segment of his speech was cut off in the television broadcast. (The radio captured the entire things.) In defense, the TV station programmer states that the sole reason is that the show had to be shortened and that other performer's songs have been shortened as well. Is this already the start of censorhip? Nobody can prove it for sure.
Saturday, December 28, 2002
Hong Kong can do no wrong
Gasp! This is not the Hong Kong I remembered visiting last time at all. You would think that over the years, a cities can only increase in population density, in pollution and in high rises. Well, I'm not saying that all the high rises disappeared over night cuz it didn't, but where is the familiar stench of overpowering car exhaust and other idiosyncracies of air pollution? The ground seems cleaner and I haven't once stepped on a glob of spittle never mind canine stool since I arrived into the train station from my 27 hour train ride from Shanghai. There isn't quite as many people walking about on the streets at I remembered either. After the Asian crisis and the recent couple years of economic decline, people are finding less and less time for consumerism. Even the taxis on the streets are looking forlorn with the "for hire" sign illuminated eerily in red neon.
Sigh! But this is the exact reason that I am beginning to become fond of this city. The state that Hong Kong was in before these particular changes really turned me off and it gave me the big HK-repellant attitude before leaving Canada. People here refuse to bargain. I went to the hair dresser's and the guy was telling me "You don't seem like you're from overseas. You try to bargain as though you're an old house wife." Of course, he can never understand how bargaining can take you miles in China and that prices are so much lower in the mainland! When you go out to eat here, it's the equivalent to Canada. (Although I went to an all you can eat Japanese meal in Shanghai and it was $30 Cdn!).
Hong Kong $$
"Please mind the doors!" The feminine and sultry MTR station (subway) voice announces in a British accent as I wait to get into the train. The double glass doors slides open before the train doors itself opens in case any lunatics passing by might attempt to push a surprised passenger in front of an on-coming train. There is an Octopus pass that you slide at terminals before entry and it deducts the money from your card when you exit at the arrival station. The pass works for city buses, trams and even some cake shops. Some passes even come in the form of a watch. It's amazing and it's costing a fortune to. When I went on a bike ride towards the countryside, it cost me 40 odd Hong Kong dollars. One HK dollar is the equiv of $4.98 CDN. Compared to the 3 kuai Beijing subway this is definitely a huge difference!
Ads here tell me "cheap eats", a meal for $30HK! I scoff and dream of 3 course meals for 12RMB. . . Other than the buying power, I also miss speaking and practicing my Mandarin. Even though I heard a few people here and there speak Mandarin, I never have a chance to use it.
Gasp! This is not the Hong Kong I remembered visiting last time at all. You would think that over the years, a cities can only increase in population density, in pollution and in high rises. Well, I'm not saying that all the high rises disappeared over night cuz it didn't, but where is the familiar stench of overpowering car exhaust and other idiosyncracies of air pollution? The ground seems cleaner and I haven't once stepped on a glob of spittle never mind canine stool since I arrived into the train station from my 27 hour train ride from Shanghai. There isn't quite as many people walking about on the streets at I remembered either. After the Asian crisis and the recent couple years of economic decline, people are finding less and less time for consumerism. Even the taxis on the streets are looking forlorn with the "for hire" sign illuminated eerily in red neon.
Sigh! But this is the exact reason that I am beginning to become fond of this city. The state that Hong Kong was in before these particular changes really turned me off and it gave me the big HK-repellant attitude before leaving Canada. People here refuse to bargain. I went to the hair dresser's and the guy was telling me "You don't seem like you're from overseas. You try to bargain as though you're an old house wife." Of course, he can never understand how bargaining can take you miles in China and that prices are so much lower in the mainland! When you go out to eat here, it's the equivalent to Canada. (Although I went to an all you can eat Japanese meal in Shanghai and it was $30 Cdn!).
Hong Kong $$
"Please mind the doors!" The feminine and sultry MTR station (subway) voice announces in a British accent as I wait to get into the train. The double glass doors slides open before the train doors itself opens in case any lunatics passing by might attempt to push a surprised passenger in front of an on-coming train. There is an Octopus pass that you slide at terminals before entry and it deducts the money from your card when you exit at the arrival station. The pass works for city buses, trams and even some cake shops. Some passes even come in the form of a watch. It's amazing and it's costing a fortune to. When I went on a bike ride towards the countryside, it cost me 40 odd Hong Kong dollars. One HK dollar is the equiv of $4.98 CDN. Compared to the 3 kuai Beijing subway this is definitely a huge difference!
Ads here tell me "cheap eats", a meal for $30HK! I scoff and dream of 3 course meals for 12RMB. . . Other than the buying power, I also miss speaking and practicing my Mandarin. Even though I heard a few people here and there speak Mandarin, I never have a chance to use it.
Wednesday, December 18, 2002
Shanghai, Shanghai
Once I stepped out into the open in Shanghai, I immediately realised "Hey, it's not -10c anymore!" The place is more humid and warmer. Except for the evenings in places where there is no heating! V. cold if without three layers of blankets. God rest the soul of one great individual who invented central heating!
Consumer's Paradise
I think I'm edging closer and closer to bigger cities, as my next stop is Hong Kong for Christmas. Shanghai is similar to the Hong Kong I saw a few years ago with people heading out leaflets of advertisement to bystanders. People in Shanghai also sell newspapers on the subway. I have to confess, this consumer fever is starting to overtake me as well and I have succumbed to new purchases which is the culture here. As they say, while in Shanghai, do as the Shanghainese do. The stereotype here is that Shanghainese are money greedy and husbands are henpecked. Interesting combination.
There are more shopping districts filled with people chattering and bustling about in mad frenzy, trying to get the best deals and toting armfuls of new puchases. It's rather exciting, I must admit. It will be worlds apart when I get back home where the land is great but people are sparse compared to crowds of people in Shanghai's city centre like cow's hair (Chinese idiom). Eating is so good too, with outdoor stalls and fresh yummy good sold by food vendors with community markets and everything so close and accessible.
Warning: Under Construction
I was told that a few years back, most of the world's construction cranes were in Shanghai and that within a span of ten years, a thousand highrises were build there. At the Bund, the seaside/harbourside, by the famous beautiful turn of the century Western buildings, you can look across the harbour at new highrises, including the world's third largest building in the world's third largest city. But the thing is, most of the new business district (Pudong) buildings are empty because the architecture is developing much faster than the development of actual companies, organizations, enterprises, etc. However, the overall architecture in Shanghai is beautiful. You can really see theFrench, English and Asian influence during the time of Concession at the beginning of the 20th Century. It was a time in history when the city was divided into sections other countries claimed, but it was also the pinnacle of Shanghai's history. The fusion cultures really gives it its characteristics.
Most local people here speak the Shanghainese dialect which I do not understand. But there are really lots of different people touring here from all over China. Mostly from the countryside, I was told. The Bund, being the biggest tourist attraction is a place where tourists who do not look Asians are often harassed by Chinese countryside tourists to have their pictures taken with them. V. interesting and I'm v. glad that I look Korean- I mean - Chinese.
Anything outside Shanghai?
Right now I am at an Internet cafe in Hangzhou, a city a couple hours train ride from Shanghai. I was in Suzhou a couple days ago. There is a saying that SuHang is like Heaven on earth. Suzhou is filled with countless man-made gardens like the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Gardens in Vancouver reminiscent of the Tang Dynasty, I think. However, I am much more in love with Hangzhou, with its West Lake, a massive lake with trees, and greenery, most nature like than anything I've experience in China so far other than the Inner Mongolia plains experience.
Guess what!!! It's raining. I'm not nuts cuz I'm happy. Beijng was too dry. I've only seem it rain twice in the 3 months was there. It's like Vancouver now. I love the smell after it stops raining. You can't smell and feel the pollution as much either.
Once I stepped out into the open in Shanghai, I immediately realised "Hey, it's not -10c anymore!" The place is more humid and warmer. Except for the evenings in places where there is no heating! V. cold if without three layers of blankets. God rest the soul of one great individual who invented central heating!
Consumer's Paradise
I think I'm edging closer and closer to bigger cities, as my next stop is Hong Kong for Christmas. Shanghai is similar to the Hong Kong I saw a few years ago with people heading out leaflets of advertisement to bystanders. People in Shanghai also sell newspapers on the subway. I have to confess, this consumer fever is starting to overtake me as well and I have succumbed to new purchases which is the culture here. As they say, while in Shanghai, do as the Shanghainese do. The stereotype here is that Shanghainese are money greedy and husbands are henpecked. Interesting combination.
There are more shopping districts filled with people chattering and bustling about in mad frenzy, trying to get the best deals and toting armfuls of new puchases. It's rather exciting, I must admit. It will be worlds apart when I get back home where the land is great but people are sparse compared to crowds of people in Shanghai's city centre like cow's hair (Chinese idiom). Eating is so good too, with outdoor stalls and fresh yummy good sold by food vendors with community markets and everything so close and accessible.
Warning: Under Construction
I was told that a few years back, most of the world's construction cranes were in Shanghai and that within a span of ten years, a thousand highrises were build there. At the Bund, the seaside/harbourside, by the famous beautiful turn of the century Western buildings, you can look across the harbour at new highrises, including the world's third largest building in the world's third largest city. But the thing is, most of the new business district (Pudong) buildings are empty because the architecture is developing much faster than the development of actual companies, organizations, enterprises, etc. However, the overall architecture in Shanghai is beautiful. You can really see theFrench, English and Asian influence during the time of Concession at the beginning of the 20th Century. It was a time in history when the city was divided into sections other countries claimed, but it was also the pinnacle of Shanghai's history. The fusion cultures really gives it its characteristics.
Most local people here speak the Shanghainese dialect which I do not understand. But there are really lots of different people touring here from all over China. Mostly from the countryside, I was told. The Bund, being the biggest tourist attraction is a place where tourists who do not look Asians are often harassed by Chinese countryside tourists to have their pictures taken with them. V. interesting and I'm v. glad that I look Korean- I mean - Chinese.
Anything outside Shanghai?
Right now I am at an Internet cafe in Hangzhou, a city a couple hours train ride from Shanghai. I was in Suzhou a couple days ago. There is a saying that SuHang is like Heaven on earth. Suzhou is filled with countless man-made gardens like the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Gardens in Vancouver reminiscent of the Tang Dynasty, I think. However, I am much more in love with Hangzhou, with its West Lake, a massive lake with trees, and greenery, most nature like than anything I've experience in China so far other than the Inner Mongolia plains experience.
Guess what!!! It's raining. I'm not nuts cuz I'm happy. Beijng was too dry. I've only seem it rain twice in the 3 months was there. It's like Vancouver now. I love the smell after it stops raining. You can't smell and feel the pollution as much either.
Saturday, December 07, 2002
Confessions of a BCLU Student
Good-bye Beijing! Your heavy plastic blinds that block doorways will always remind me of ice meat storage houses. But I know you can't help it: your windy and cold weather in winter and your sweltering heat and dust storms in warmer seasons might be a bit much to bear sometimes.
Language and Identity
So I have failed miserably in trying to blend in with the the rest of the 1.3 billions Chinese in this v. vast country most of the time. That being eveybody thinks I'm Korean. Darn! My undercover sister plan has been foiled. At first it was amusing, but after hearing "You're not Canadian! You look like you're Korean!" for the 342nd time, I just want to parade around the streets of Beijing with a gigantic sandwich board that reads "I am not Korean. Am Chinese-Canadian" in Hanyu.
What about my Hanyu? I think it'll take me a lifetime to master and speak Mandarin fluently and be able to use the language with its authenic nuances. Yesterday, while riding on the bus with a couple friends and chatting to them in Hanyu, this boy around 10 years old who sat diagonal in front of me turned towards his father and said "She doesn't speak well." Well! That just proves my three months language training here simply ended with an ego deflation by a little kid in a mere second. At that time, my American friend turned to him and asked if he knew English, but he just ignored her. I refused to stoop to his level to argue in my "doesn't speak well" Hanyu as I wept bitterly within.
Views
Censorship and corruption is not as prevalent as the media portrays China to be. Elliot, in reply to your question, the Internet is not as restrictive as you may think. I did try the search on Google with "democracy and China" and I was able to access pages. The media definitely paints a skewed image of this country as all you communications students should already know. I know the government is not the best compared to our first world one and horrendous things like the Tiananmen incident happen, but look what the government south of the 49 is doing.
The image of the Chinese as being weasely conniving people who cannot be trusted is not entirely true either. (although I can testify that it does exist after bargaining experiences and taxi competitions at the airport). The friends I've met here are super nice. They have huge hearts, are very giving and love cultural exchange.
Sight-seeing in the Cold
I wanted to check out the open antique market here. But poor weather has a certain effect on me that I can't quite put a finger too. To all of you who experienced the Bonhomme Festival in Quebec city, you will know what I mean. There was so much to see: antiques and trinkets regardless of how poorly, fake and factory made they were at times. But you can't even move your mouth and cheeks at you move from small stall to small stall. I think that visiting any place in the summer is best (except for over hot tropical places, like Indonesia that experiences cold temperatures of only 20-25 degrees, I've been told).
Christmas!?!
Crikey! It is that time of the year already? I do miss baking Christmas stuff and having all the yummy cookies-dessert foods. I hear you guys describing the new lines of Christmas merchandise and goods on the market and I can just imagine Vancouver now: Christmas lights, gaudy ads and cheesy music hitting up all the shopping areas in town.
I completely forgot about this festive season (I like to think about it on Dec 24/25, please) until I went past a supermarket and saw a lone Christmas tree. You see, although North America has taken advantage of the comsuer blitz of family gifts and holiday fever early, this phenomenon in China in comparison, is few and far between. It's terrible that there are more restrictions on religion in China, but the absense of the super-hyper frenzied consumer oriented holiday makes me free! They've not yet caught on entirely here in Beijing but I will find out the exact details about China as a whole in Shanghai. I suspect the consumer frenzied level will be a bit higher there. And of couse Hong Kong will be at its ultimate high as always.
Zai jian, Beijing
Will be heading off to Shanghai tomorrow and then to Hong Kong. And then? Who knows, hopefully I will not run out of funds by that time. Hong Kong will definitely be ruthless to my wallet. Am planning not to return to Beijing on this trip in China. However, will continue to send updates.
Good-bye Beijing! Your heavy plastic blinds that block doorways will always remind me of ice meat storage houses. But I know you can't help it: your windy and cold weather in winter and your sweltering heat and dust storms in warmer seasons might be a bit much to bear sometimes.
Language and Identity
So I have failed miserably in trying to blend in with the the rest of the 1.3 billions Chinese in this v. vast country most of the time. That being eveybody thinks I'm Korean. Darn! My undercover sister plan has been foiled. At first it was amusing, but after hearing "You're not Canadian! You look like you're Korean!" for the 342nd time, I just want to parade around the streets of Beijing with a gigantic sandwich board that reads "I am not Korean. Am Chinese-Canadian" in Hanyu.
What about my Hanyu? I think it'll take me a lifetime to master and speak Mandarin fluently and be able to use the language with its authenic nuances. Yesterday, while riding on the bus with a couple friends and chatting to them in Hanyu, this boy around 10 years old who sat diagonal in front of me turned towards his father and said "She doesn't speak well." Well! That just proves my three months language training here simply ended with an ego deflation by a little kid in a mere second. At that time, my American friend turned to him and asked if he knew English, but he just ignored her. I refused to stoop to his level to argue in my "doesn't speak well" Hanyu as I wept bitterly within.
Views
Censorship and corruption is not as prevalent as the media portrays China to be. Elliot, in reply to your question, the Internet is not as restrictive as you may think. I did try the search on Google with "democracy and China" and I was able to access pages. The media definitely paints a skewed image of this country as all you communications students should already know. I know the government is not the best compared to our first world one and horrendous things like the Tiananmen incident happen, but look what the government south of the 49 is doing.
The image of the Chinese as being weasely conniving people who cannot be trusted is not entirely true either. (although I can testify that it does exist after bargaining experiences and taxi competitions at the airport). The friends I've met here are super nice. They have huge hearts, are very giving and love cultural exchange.
Sight-seeing in the Cold
I wanted to check out the open antique market here. But poor weather has a certain effect on me that I can't quite put a finger too. To all of you who experienced the Bonhomme Festival in Quebec city, you will know what I mean. There was so much to see: antiques and trinkets regardless of how poorly, fake and factory made they were at times. But you can't even move your mouth and cheeks at you move from small stall to small stall. I think that visiting any place in the summer is best (except for over hot tropical places, like Indonesia that experiences cold temperatures of only 20-25 degrees, I've been told).
Christmas!?!
Crikey! It is that time of the year already? I do miss baking Christmas stuff and having all the yummy cookies-dessert foods. I hear you guys describing the new lines of Christmas merchandise and goods on the market and I can just imagine Vancouver now: Christmas lights, gaudy ads and cheesy music hitting up all the shopping areas in town.
I completely forgot about this festive season (I like to think about it on Dec 24/25, please) until I went past a supermarket and saw a lone Christmas tree. You see, although North America has taken advantage of the comsuer blitz of family gifts and holiday fever early, this phenomenon in China in comparison, is few and far between. It's terrible that there are more restrictions on religion in China, but the absense of the super-hyper frenzied consumer oriented holiday makes me free! They've not yet caught on entirely here in Beijing but I will find out the exact details about China as a whole in Shanghai. I suspect the consumer frenzied level will be a bit higher there. And of couse Hong Kong will be at its ultimate high as always.
Zai jian, Beijing
Will be heading off to Shanghai tomorrow and then to Hong Kong. And then? Who knows, hopefully I will not run out of funds by that time. Hong Kong will definitely be ruthless to my wallet. Am planning not to return to Beijing on this trip in China. However, will continue to send updates.
Saturday, November 30, 2002
Classes end Dec. 4
I'm feeling too lazy write in this blog lately. It is possible that Beijing life is becoming too mundane for this Canuck? I promise to send updates when I go off on my journeys in a week. Before leaving the capital, I plan to visit the massage hair salon place for hair wash and massage, get cheap DVDs/CDs and books to continue studying hanyu when I get back (that is if I get motivated enough. . .)
Simatai Great Wall Pictures
Courtesy of Chikako Kobayashi
Window to da Wall
Three Posers
Lookin' Up
Mountains after mountains
Ada and Chikako
Wall and Mountain
Please let me know if the links don't work or something. I can't access geocities from here for some reason. Thanks!
I'm feeling too lazy write in this blog lately. It is possible that Beijing life is becoming too mundane for this Canuck? I promise to send updates when I go off on my journeys in a week. Before leaving the capital, I plan to visit the massage hair salon place for hair wash and massage, get cheap DVDs/CDs and books to continue studying hanyu when I get back (that is if I get motivated enough. . .)
Simatai Great Wall Pictures
Courtesy of Chikako Kobayashi
Window to da Wall
Three Posers
Lookin' Up
Mountains after mountains
Ada and Chikako
Wall and Mountain
Please let me know if the links don't work or something. I can't access geocities from here for some reason. Thanks!
Wednesday, November 20, 2002
Change of plans
Due to unforeseen circumstances (or foreseen. . .either one). Undecisive queen rules again! I have decided to leave Beijing. I mentioned that Ottawa and Beijing have many similarities. Another one is weather. I have done it before so why am I putting myself through with living in the cold again. Thus- I will travel south for the winter.
I'm eating too much for my own good. The food here is yummy, unhealthy and come in huge portions. Why do I like food so much? Thighs are taking on the circumfrence of redwood tree stumps. . .
Number of Bridget Jones' thoughts: approximately 33.4/day. v. bad, but thighs are probably twice hers and. . .ack!
What I miss: pho, miso gravy fries at the Naam, dim sum, sushi (why is it all food!!!), oh yeah, Garibaldi lake, snowboarding, the Chief.
Due to unforeseen circumstances (or foreseen. . .either one). Undecisive queen rules again! I have decided to leave Beijing. I mentioned that Ottawa and Beijing have many similarities. Another one is weather. I have done it before so why am I putting myself through with living in the cold again. Thus- I will travel south for the winter.
I'm eating too much for my own good. The food here is yummy, unhealthy and come in huge portions. Why do I like food so much? Thighs are taking on the circumfrence of redwood tree stumps. . .
Number of Bridget Jones' thoughts: approximately 33.4/day. v. bad, but thighs are probably twice hers and. . .ack!
What I miss: pho, miso gravy fries at the Naam, dim sum, sushi (why is it all food!!!), oh yeah, Garibaldi lake, snowboarding, the Chief.
Saturday, November 16, 2002
Weather: windy, dry as always, leaves are falling to the ground for their lives (I've kept a couple fallen red maple leaves for momento!), cold (0 degrees)
Places I've gallavanted to recently
I went to Datong last weekend. Its around a 5.5 hour drive there, but on the way back the traffic extended the drive to 7.5 hours! Datong is an interesting place. With a history of 5000 years, it completely shames Canada's less than 200 years of history. Boy, do I feel for the Chinese youths majoring in history here! My Chinese friend who is an architecture told me that Datong boasts 70% of China's oldest building. Its famous Temple tower made it to the world's top ten great towers (others include Pisa and Eiffel) because it's an old structure (around 1000 years old), is completely made of wood and with its intricate craftmanship, uses no nails of any kind. The hanging monastary is also beautiful; built in the middle of a mountain, it was contructed by dangling workers from the top of the Heng mountain. Heng mountain is one of the five famous Dao mountains of China.
Other than being an architecture's dream come true, Shanxi (province) also has the idiosyncratic culture of drinking deadly bai jiu (Chinese vodka). I went to Datong with a group of older students (professors, doctors) from Shenzhen (city in Guangdong) and we were shown the city by the Heritage minister and his assistants. Every meal we had (except for breakfast, praise Zeus!) we had to drink a shot each time they insisted. My friend and I had an average of 6 shots at each meal which does bad for weak stomachs and livers. We soon came to the conclusion that only we, the foreign young females were given this grand honour. Chinese men indeed! Alas, the life of a lao wai is hard work. . .
Note: Bai jiu is so ingrained in the culture that it is made available in most if not all provinces of China especially in colder areas where it acts as a heating device. ex. Inner Mongolia and Xin Jiang. The interesting thing about Xing Jiang people drinking bai jiu is that most of them are Muslim and they treat bai jiu as a staple drink!
Cantonese 101!
A couple weeks ago, I called home and realized to my great horror and surprise that the words that came out from my mouth were not proper Cantonese or English, but a garbled form of a dialect that involved acrobatic tricks with Mandarin and Cantonese. As I recovered from my incoherant sobbing fit, it dawned on me that I needed to practice my Cantonese, since I've not been using it regularly. After forcing shot after shot of bai jiu into a classmate's mouth, I was finally able to successfully coerce her into introducing me to her Hong Kong neighbours.
I went with them to Simatai Great Wall last Saturday. The first time I did the Great Wall, I went to the Mutianyu site. But the scenery at Simatai is not to be rivalled. Looking at the rugged landscape and the towers that dot each rocky peak, I was mesmerised. I felt so small when I looked at the rolling hills and at the domino cascade of mountain range after mountain range.
My Epiphany
China is huge. No duh! But, even though Canada is bigger, there are only so many places inhabited by people and so many cultures, but China is different as you walk from one square meter to the next. So many dialects, so many traditions, so many accents and customs. I realised that I don't think I will be able to see the entire country and understand what life truly is like here! It's just beyond me, but meeting and speaking with Chinese who come here to study from other provinces, I'm starting to collect snapshots from various places of this country.
So what are my plans. I've decided to extend my study here in Beijing till end of January and travel a little. I know I'll be back to see other parts but now I'll take in what I can. But nothing is ever certain. With my unique personality as indecisiveness queen and life planner, I have now established a concrete plan: I am going to eat lunch soon cuz I'm hungry.
Thank you ladies and gentlemen!!!
Places I've gallavanted to recently
I went to Datong last weekend. Its around a 5.5 hour drive there, but on the way back the traffic extended the drive to 7.5 hours! Datong is an interesting place. With a history of 5000 years, it completely shames Canada's less than 200 years of history. Boy, do I feel for the Chinese youths majoring in history here! My Chinese friend who is an architecture told me that Datong boasts 70% of China's oldest building. Its famous Temple tower made it to the world's top ten great towers (others include Pisa and Eiffel) because it's an old structure (around 1000 years old), is completely made of wood and with its intricate craftmanship, uses no nails of any kind. The hanging monastary is also beautiful; built in the middle of a mountain, it was contructed by dangling workers from the top of the Heng mountain. Heng mountain is one of the five famous Dao mountains of China.
Other than being an architecture's dream come true, Shanxi (province) also has the idiosyncratic culture of drinking deadly bai jiu (Chinese vodka). I went to Datong with a group of older students (professors, doctors) from Shenzhen (city in Guangdong) and we were shown the city by the Heritage minister and his assistants. Every meal we had (except for breakfast, praise Zeus!) we had to drink a shot each time they insisted. My friend and I had an average of 6 shots at each meal which does bad for weak stomachs and livers. We soon came to the conclusion that only we, the foreign young females were given this grand honour. Chinese men indeed! Alas, the life of a lao wai is hard work. . .
Note: Bai jiu is so ingrained in the culture that it is made available in most if not all provinces of China especially in colder areas where it acts as a heating device. ex. Inner Mongolia and Xin Jiang. The interesting thing about Xing Jiang people drinking bai jiu is that most of them are Muslim and they treat bai jiu as a staple drink!
Cantonese 101!
A couple weeks ago, I called home and realized to my great horror and surprise that the words that came out from my mouth were not proper Cantonese or English, but a garbled form of a dialect that involved acrobatic tricks with Mandarin and Cantonese. As I recovered from my incoherant sobbing fit, it dawned on me that I needed to practice my Cantonese, since I've not been using it regularly. After forcing shot after shot of bai jiu into a classmate's mouth, I was finally able to successfully coerce her into introducing me to her Hong Kong neighbours.
I went with them to Simatai Great Wall last Saturday. The first time I did the Great Wall, I went to the Mutianyu site. But the scenery at Simatai is not to be rivalled. Looking at the rugged landscape and the towers that dot each rocky peak, I was mesmerised. I felt so small when I looked at the rolling hills and at the domino cascade of mountain range after mountain range.
My Epiphany
China is huge. No duh! But, even though Canada is bigger, there are only so many places inhabited by people and so many cultures, but China is different as you walk from one square meter to the next. So many dialects, so many traditions, so many accents and customs. I realised that I don't think I will be able to see the entire country and understand what life truly is like here! It's just beyond me, but meeting and speaking with Chinese who come here to study from other provinces, I'm starting to collect snapshots from various places of this country.
So what are my plans. I've decided to extend my study here in Beijing till end of January and travel a little. I know I'll be back to see other parts but now I'll take in what I can. But nothing is ever certain. With my unique personality as indecisiveness queen and life planner, I have now established a concrete plan: I am going to eat lunch soon cuz I'm hungry.
Thank you ladies and gentlemen!!!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
